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At the swanky new rooftop bar atop Downtown’s Curtiss Hotel, I met a married couple who saw me drinking alone and bought me a beer.By the time we parted ways after 2am, they’d invited me to come out with them the next night, and the husband even gave me his phone number. A short wander from the Curtiss at the Lucky Day whiskey bar downtown, I was sitting in front of a wall of whiskeys talking to the bartender about what to order.Or Las Puertas, a 20-seat Mexican-French hybrid where the chefs and waiters pull double duty.



Crazy things that can happen,” says city planner Chris Hawley, who also hipped me to most of the city’s history.“You’re seeing grain elevators with light projections on them. There’s this organic, laid-back fun atmosphere, that’s all around you, that’s completely devoid of pretense.” Grain elevators not getting your heart pounding? But spend an afternoon kayaking through canals that wind through the old elevators of Silo City and you’ll see why this industrial ghost town is just as calming and fascinating as a trip through Florida mangroves.At the end of Silo City you’ll find the Buffalo Riverworks brewery, possibly the city’s greatest testament to reinvention.Here, old silos have been turned into an urban adventure park, where after a few waterside beers visitors can zipline between silos, or scale the climbing wall set against another. “Buffalo is lucky because we went through an economic crash, so nobody came and ripped things down that were amazing and built crappy strip malls in their place,” says Christa Glennie Seychew, a former food editor at magazine.



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